Monday, 31 December 2012

Inserting a concealed recessed top edge zipper? Part 1

One of my sisters (I have 3) asked me to make her a bag to go to work.
She gave me a long list with her wishes about size, pockets etc.
It should have a closed top....
A long time ago, I wrote this post about a recessed zipper closure.
At that time, I was not completely happy with the achieved result.

So, this time I decided to use the "Slimline concealed top edge zip" chapter, in Lisa Lam's most recent book: A bag for all reasons, as a guideline.
I followed the steps on p.25-26 and first made a zip tab. I made my version:

Next, I cut the zip top band pieces. They are trimmed off the top edge of the lining fabric. These top band pieces will also be the top closure of your bag. I didn't want the lining fabric to be seen at the top; so I replaced these lining top bands by exterior fabric.
In the book (p. 25) it is suggested to use a top band depth of 4 cm for a medium to large bag. I followed this advice.
The height of the top band determines how deep the zipper will sit in the bag.
Then I had to determine the width of the gap at both ends of the zip.
I wanted the top of the bag to be as wide as the base, so I measured half of the bag base width and added 1 seam allowance. (10cm)
This was a mistake, you will see...
I followed steps 4-5 on p.25-26.
Have a look:
This is the result after stitching the zip top band onto the zip and lining (p. 26, fig.e)
I repeated step 4-5 with the other side of the zip, lining and top band:

Then I completed the bag lining by stitching both sides together WSO.(I didn't add a gusset for this bag.)
I got this:
Do you see the problem? The gap at both ends of the zip is far to large. It didn't even fit the exterior bag.
How I got this result...
I will tell you in my next post.

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